$2 D-I-Y Travel Wallet

 

A super easy to make, inexpensive accessory to help keep your traveling organized.

Step 1: Materials

• Craft foam sheets (2)
• Scissors
• Ruler
• Hot glue gun
• Sewing machine
• Elastic
• Template/ Pattern

Attachments

Step 2: Print and Cut

Print the template and use it to cut out the foam pieces. Cut along the solid lines, not the dashed ones. The dashed lines show where you will need to sew later.

There are four pieces: the cover, the pocket and two corners. The pockets can be used to hold small cards and money, while the corners will be used to keep your passport in place.

Step 3: Sewing

Before sewing, score the dashed lines with a ruler. Pressing the ruler down against the foam will create an indentation that you can use as a guide when sewing.

1. Take the largest piece (the cover) and sew a border around the edges. Then, sew a line directly down the center.
2. Take the pocket and sew a line across the center, this will create two credit card-sized sections.

Step 4: Glue

With hot glue, attach the pocket piece to one half of the inside cover and the corner pieces to the other half. The glue should be applied along the border of the cover, and along the stitching if the pocket piece. Don't glue the pockets or the corners shut.

Step 5: Elastic

Cut two pieces of elastic that measure the full length of the cover. The elastic will be glued to the outside of the cover (on the side with the pockets).

Place a piece of elastic 1 inch from the top edge and place the other 1 inch from the bottom. With each piece of elastic, start by gluing one end to the midpoint of that side of the cover. Once the glue has set, bring the other end around to create a loop, and glue that end in place.

When you are finished, you should have two big loops. These elastic loops will wrap around the wallet and prevent your belongings from falling out. They can also be used to secure a boarding pass to the outside of the wallet.

Step 6: Travel

To personalize your wallet you can add stickers or use a permanent marker to write your name or draw pictures on the cover. You can also take scissors and cut the corners to make them rounded. When your wallet is complete use it to store your passport, money, cards, and tickets. Safe travels!

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LED Matrix Sign - IoT Enabled

Preparation
 

LED

SK6812 SMD5050 x 25

ESP8266

WeMos D1 Mini Pro

Connect Wire

0.5 mm uncoated wire

Case

3D print: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2135569

Other

• 3 short coated wire to connect between ESP8266 and LED
• some tape for insulation
• M1 screw x 4

LED matrix Assembly


 

This LED matrix design used zigzag pattern and rotated all SMD 30 degree to reduce soldering point. Each pixel only 6.4 mm apart, it is highest density SMD5050 LED matrix I ever seen. Please read the data sheet carefully before plug the SMD in the 3D model, the first LED out point touch second LED in point. Each row have different direction, row 1, 3 and 5 have same direction, row 2 and 4 rotated 180 degree.

After place the LEDs, follow the 3D model pit cut the wire and push it in.

ESP8266 Board Assembly
Plug the WeMos D1 Mini Pro board to the 3D model, done!
Soldering work

Soldering all touch point, each LED soldering 3 - 4 points. Some LED may fail in high temperature, so I suggest test after finished soldering each LED. After soldering all 25 LEDs and tested ok, soldering to the ESP8266 board:

ESP 5V -> LED +ve

ESP GND -> LED -ve

ESP D4 -> LED in

Screw It Up

Screw up with the M1 screw.

Flash

Flash the latest version of NodeMCU WebIDE, you may see my previous Instructables for more details.

Edit config.lua and connect your mobile to the same WiFi, then browse to http://nodemcu-webide.local/led-sign.html and design your first LED sign.

Code ! Code !! Code !!!

led-sign.html and led-sign.lua are only a very simple example show what you can done in NodeMCU WebIDE. You may browser other sample and edit your own code over WiFi with your mobile!

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Smiley Wall Decoration

In recent years, emojis have made the leap from phone keyboards out into the real world. 

They can now be found everywhere from home decor, fashion to food, party decorationsand hair accessories (just to name a few!). Unless you’ve been living underneath a rock, you’ll know that one thing is for sure – emoji are only becoming more and more popular as time goes on.

With this trend, I have planned to recycle all my old CD's to an awesome Wall-

You'll Need

1. A pair of scissors
2. Old CD
3. A few color papers of your choice
4. Glue
5. Pencil/Pen
6. Ruler
7. Compass
8. Sharpener (optional)
9. Double sided tape

Mark * Glue * Cut

1. Clean the CD with a piece of cloth, so that there is no residue on it.
2. Take the CD and place it on the color paper, outline using pencil or markers and cut out the portion from the color paper.
3. Then glue the CD and paste it over the CD (make sure you have even spread of glue while sticking them together).
4. At last cut-out paper together.

Cut The Emoji

1. Decide on the design of your emoji and start drawing them on a piece of paper as shown in the picture.
2. Once you are done with the drawing cut the necessary parts as shown in the picture.

Get it all Together

1. We are almost done with the decor, now it's time to decide the formation.
2. After you decide, make sure they are stuck properly with proper positioning.
3. Now add double sided tape on each of the CD and arrange them.

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D-I-Y Wall Mounted Shelf

Materials

A 2 by 4 piece of wood will work or even a 1 by 4.

Then all you need to do is find a piece of tree branch.

I sprayed it down the night before with insect killer. However I got to some pointers from my friends at YouTube to put it the oven for about 15 minutes this should kill any insect.

Cutting the Wood


 

I made my cut on the miter saw this was faster for me.

2 cut were made at 20 inches

1 cut was made at 16 inches

Then I clamp them together and took measurements. I used an addition clamp to for the opposite end. I needed to make sure the spacing was consistent all the way through.

I then place the tree branch near the gap and then scored it with the saw blade. I took a Reciprocating Saw to cut the branch. The cut I made was 1/8 '' longer than it should have been. This way I have room to sand it down.

Coating the Branch
 

Cut the twigs down to desired size.

Then sand it down to remove the rough texture and any dirt.

Mount the branch to a piece of wood this way it could stay up right.

Next I sealed it with a clear coat Minwax.

Assembly
 

Now sand down the wood using 120 grit sand paper and then use 220 grit to complete.

I used a biscuit joiner to join the lumbers. Glue it and then clamp it. If you don't have a joiner you can use a nail gut, dowels, or even screw.

If you use screw just fill in the screw head before painting or staining.

Painting and Finishing
 

I used a white gloss multi purpose spray paint from Rust-Oleum

I applied 3 light coats.

Once everything it dried insert the branch in the open end.

I used a nail gun to secure the branch in place. You can also use screw here. Either way you will have to retouch this area. If you don't mind you can always assemble everything prior to painting and tape off the branch.

Last but not least attach saw tooth picture hangers. Install a few screws and hang.

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Super Light Drone

  

Things You Need

Prices can differ but you can find everything needed at Ebay. I will not provide with URLs as they change over time. Look for Hubsan h107c, except for the motors that must be for h107L. If you don´t already have a transmitter it´s probably more cheap to buy a whole quadrocopter with it included and take the parts from that.

Materials

• 3D printed chassis and battery clip: Files downloaded from Here
• 1x Radio transmitter: Hubsan H107C-19 4-Channel 2.4GHz [$24]
• 1x Radio receiver+flight control: Hubsan H107-A34 [$19]
• 4x Motors: Hubsan 7x20mm (2x CW, 2x CCW) for H107L [$7]
• 4x LED: Hubsan H107L & H107C LED (2x Red, 2x Blue, 3mm diameter) [$6]
• 4x Propellers: Hubsan H107-A02-PRO (2x TypeA, 2x TypeB) [$2]
• 1x Battery: HUBSAN HS-H107-A24 3.7V 380mAh Li-Po Battery [$9]
• 1x Charger: Hubsan 3.7V Usb Charger [$2]
• 2x screws: Hubsan Part H107-A07 Screw set [$2]

Total cost (without transmitter): $47

Equipment

• 3D printer (I used a Wanhao Duplicator 4x, similar to Makerbot)
• Soldering iron
• Screwdriver
• 1mm drill.

Time to Print

 

For the print I used a Wanhao Duplicator 4x printer. It´s similar to makerbot. For filament material i choose PLA because it´s easiest to use for beginners. If you want more rugged construction you better choose a different material. For slicing software I use Simplify3D, very easy to use and creates very good prints. It cost a bit of money but it´s worth it in the end. I manually defined the support structure for example and you find that in the images.

You can find all settings in my images but here is the most important ones for the body:

• Filament: PLA
• Nozzle width: 0.4mm
• Extrusion width: 0.46mm
• Layer height: 0.1mm
• Top solid layers: 5
• Bottom solid layers: 5
• Shells: 1
• Infill: 10% with 50% extrusion width @ 75 & -25 degrees
• Support infill: 30% and offset 0,25mm
• Temp extruder: 218C
• Temp bed: 60C

For a more robust body I recommend 100% infill and 2 shells. For the battery clip you can use same settings except extrusion width which I set to 0.42 to get a better fit on the body. For bed adhesion I used regular painters tape.

• Printing time: 2.5h
• Material cost: 0.25 dollars

Wiring & Assembly

 

The construction is very basic and I made it plus the soldering in just an hour (including taking photographs). The circuit board has a clever design where it´s almost impossible to connect wrong motor to wrong connections, but please look at my images to make sure you put the motors in correct place! There are two different type of motors and two different type of propellers, clockwise (CW) and counter clockwise (CCW).

Help Table:

• Propeller A = CW: Red=plus, Blue=minus
• Propeller B = CCW: White=plus, Black=minus
• Blue LED = Front: Red=plus, yellow=minus
• Red LED = Rear: Red=plus, yellow=minus

Construction:

1. Place the circuit board in the chassis
   1. Make sure the holes in the circuit boards is on top of the two fix
   2. Drill two small 1mm holes in the chassis using the circuit board as reference
   3. Use two small screws to fixate the board
2. Place the LED´s first in the small holes pointing to the ground (if you want to fly high)
   1. Make sure Blue LED´s are in the front and red led´s in the rear end
   2. The circuit board power cable indicates rear end of quadcopter
   3. Put the LED cables through both slits so it will go beneath the motor
   4. Use a small tool to bend the cable correctly beneath the motor before you place the motors
3. Place the motors and make sure the cable fits into small slit beneath the motor together with LED cable
4. You can fix the cable in the long slits under the arms later using a bit of glue

Soldering:

1. Do NOT cut the cables, they already have correct length
2. Set soldering iron to 180C (too high temp can damage the circuits)
3. Use the help table above to get polarization right
   1. All LED and motor connections are closest to the correct LEDs and motors
4. Heat each connection just a few seconds, if you miss let it cool and try again to avoid damages.
5. Fixate all cables with small bits of glue

You can now place the battery beneath the chassis using the clip and you are ready for a flight!
Place the quadcopter on flat surface and calibrate the gyro from the controller by holding throttle in it´s lower right position and switching fast right pad left/right/left/right a couple of times until you hear a sound and the LED´s flashes one time.

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